By M.A. Hann, B.G. Thomas
No. 36 within the Ars Textrina
series, released in organization with the
University of Leeds overseas Textiles Archive (ULITA) as an
accompaniment to the exhibition ‘Patterns of tradition – Decorative
Read Online or Download Patterns of Culture – Decorative Weaving Techniques PDF
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Extra resources for Patterns of Culture – Decorative Weaving Techniques
Often the heddles are suspended from above the warp. In some cases the warp extends beyond the loom frame and is held taut by a heavy stone which is brought closer to the loom as weaving progresses. A comprehensive explanation of the operation of West African narrowband looms was given by Picton and Mack . An interesting review was provided by Lamb and Lamb . 36 The details of the early introduction of the treadle loom to Europe are not clear. It was certainly the case that from the thirteenth century CE onwards raised horizontal treadle looms were in widespread use throughout much of Europe.
199-201]. Although still restricted, in the main, to small-scale geometric patterns, the woven fabrics from the Shang dynasty (c. sixteenth century to eleventh century BCE) and Western Zhou dynasty (c. eleventh century to 771 BCE) are rich in a variety of motifs. Twill weave was used extensively, either in the form of twill patterns against a plain ground or in the form of fancy twills. 10]. Warp-patterned silks, known as jin, were the most common patterned woven fabrics in the Chu textile finds (from the Warring States period, 475-221 BCE) and they indicate the wide application of technically advanced drawlooms.
The illustration in Figure 39 is more readily interpreted, at least by twenty-first-century European observers, as a horizontal loom arrangement. The original murals from which the illustrations in Figures 38 and 39 are sourced are from the same region and the same approximate period, suggesting further that they are depictions of similar loom types. Figure 39 Drawing of single weaver at horizontal ground loom (used for mat weaving). Derived from mural in tomb at Beni Hasan, Egypt, c. 1900 BCE.